Grey and White Ikat Silk Blend Bag and Sleep Mask Travel Set - Exciting Journeys

Artisan Organization: Maru Markhamat Umarova

Country:

"In my childhood I often would cut pieces of fabric, glue them on a paper and draw an outfit creating an image. That time I did not know that I was doing fashion sketching. I had great interest in fashion design from early age, and I dreamed of two things-becoming a fashion designer and travelling around the world. The philosophy behind my work is with respect for traditions and in harmony with the present.

"For making clothes, I use cotton and silk hand-woven fabrics, silk velvet made by artisans of Margilan. I also use hand embroidery of all regions of Uzbekistan and block printing on clothes. This technique is one of the lost techniques in Uzbekistan, and currently only a few designers and craftsmen use it. I am often inspired by the cultures of other countries. From the very beginning of my creativity path, I have been inspired by Japanese aesthetics, minimalism and am an adherent of the deconstructivism style. During my trip in Japan, I learnt Japanese hand stitches that is used for making kimonos. Using this type of stitch I have created double-sided chapans and cardigans, for which I have received a Quality Certificate from UNESCO.

"I design clothes and participate in the creation of a cut and my assistants sew them. In our studio, there are women who are responsible for each stage of creating an apparel-starting from taking measurements of the client and ending with the ironing. The biggest challenge for me was to become a designer, to work, to open my own atelier, to gather a team being a woman. I faced and had to overcome the prejudice of my husband who used to believe that a woman should not work. Now, I try to empower women from remote villages and vulnerable layers of society. I try to teach them the skills I already know and show support in a way I can provide.

"Besides being a designer, I am often invited to give masterclasses and to conduct theoretical and practical on-site trainings on traditional embroidery, ethnic design and natural dyeing within projects aimed at the preservation, development and promotion of cultural heritage of Uzbekistan and, in particular, traditional handicrafts. I take great pleasure in contributing into the this sphere. I presented my collection at the US State Department, gave a presentation of Uzbek textiles at Harvard University (Boston) and at the Embassy of Uzbekistan in the USA.

"In addition to being a designer, I also teach children fashion design at an international school. And I am often invited to give master classes and conduct theoretical and practical field trainings on ethnic design, history of Uzbek textiles, traditions and innovations in the production of Ikat within Uzbek government and UNESCO projects, aimed at preserving, developing and popularizing the cultural heritage of Uzbekistan. I take great pleasure in contributing into this area.

"The fabrics are 100% traditional. Items are made of natural silk, ikat silk, silk velvet – all handmade fabrics. I also use vintage fabrics, vintage embroidery and create quilted products using recycled cotton. This is my conscious contribution to sustainable fashion. I am a supporter of intelligent design when every detail is logical and every décor is justified by practicality, when there is an idea, philosophy and high-quality execution. Considering the trends, timeless design and quality are nevertheless important for me, so that my product can be worn by the customer throughout decades."

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